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Highline

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Highline

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Address: 835 Washington Street
City: New York, NY
Zip: 10014
Phone: 212-243-3339
Fax: 212 243 6270
Email: info@nychighline.com
Site: Visit the restaurant site
Map: Map
Cuisine: Thai
Area: Meatpacking District
Entree Price: $15-20


Summary:



Review:

It's the rare New York restaurant that shines on all three important counts: cool design, superb food and affordable prices. So what a surprise it is to discover that Highline, a week-old Thai eatery on the edge of the Meatpacking District, is fulfilling all of them. Designer Charoonkit Thahong's clever tri-level space is full of fun details, including a three-level waterfall, beds for lounging and eating, and a table encircling a disco ball. Most importantly, the main eating areas are wonderfully comfortable. (One important note: the bathroom doors push in, not out.) Fortunately, Thahong's setting is more than matched by chef's Peter Pitakwong's excellent cuisine, all of which is gorgeously presented. While portions are not huge, everything is very gently priced -- indeed, no entrée tops $15 -- so you can do lots of sampling. For starters, don't miss a refreshing chilled green papaya salad topped with slices of delicious salmon that has been cured in a cherry tomato and beet marinade. Equally inventive are a pair of surprisingly light foie gras fritters in a smoked soy sauce and the pad Thai spring rolls, which are a far cry from the greasy specimens found in lesser restaurants. Duck, a staple in Thai cuisine, is taken for a nifty spin here: a breast and leg are beautifully roasted, then napped in a curried sauce dotted with a lychee and nut chutney. Non-carnivores will delight in perfectly steamed striped bass in a light broth, served over slices of lotus root. And despite its less-than-appealing name, the stuffed rice towel is remarkably tasty, a bowl-like structure made of rice noodle filled with a mélange of shrimp and calamari or chicken (or all three if you request) in a yummy brown sauce. Best of all, you don't have to leave to have Highline to enjoy a satisfying dessert. The house's take on tiramisu combines ladyfingers soaked in flavorful Thai iced tea with a dash of fruit syrup and an addictive creamy topping, while the excellent banana parfait (which has no ice cream) turns out to contain a warm banana filling sandwiched in between a quasi-biscuit made of flattened rice. This Highline is definitely worth following.

Review By: Brian Scott Lipton


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