Tanoreen
Address:
7523 3rd Ave
City:
Brooklyn, NY
Zip:
11209
Phone:
(718) 748-5600
Site:
Visit the restaurant site
Map:
Map
Cuisine:
Middle Eastern
Area:
Bay Ridge
Entree Price:
$10-15
Review:
The New Year arrived bringing with it frigid temperatures. With the wind chill factor it felt like it was below zero, not the kind of weather you'd expect people to trudge out in, unless they really felt like it was worth it. So, we were amazed to find Tanoreen in its new location bustling with a line out the door, even though the place is about three times the size of old restaurant. And things have certainly changed.
Out... is the counter showcasing the foods of Nazareth. But chef Rawia Bishara still works the kitchen, and the crowd, like a proud mama.
In... is a new bar serving up fragrant Tanoreenis; a grapefruit martini with a dash of orange blossom, and a pomegranate mojito with loaded up with fresh mint. Both aee quite yummy.
We sipped our Tanoreenis as we huddled by the bar waiting for a table. The wait was a good half hour. But it gave us a chance to take in the new restaurant with its vaulted ceilings, over-sized chandeliers and plush red banquettes. There are Middle eastern books on display, along with oriental lamps and ornate belts that I imagined at one time may have belonged to a belly dancer. Ms. Bishara has also managed to whip up a nice crowd, from sexy Middle Easterners to yuppies in search of an exemplary meal. And they'll find one here at Tanoreen.
Our meal began with an assortment of flat breads that should not be passed up, especially the crispy za'atar smothered with thyme and toasted sesame seeds. It could serve as a meal in itself. But then you might miss out on the lovely assortment of meze. It begins with fresh olives and pickled turnips and builds into some of the best Middle Eastern appetizers you'll find in the city. There is silky smooth humus, and on this day, muhammara, a dip made with roasted red peppers, chopped walnuts, lemon juice and a touch of pomegranate molasses. Both were drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and fresh parsley. They're perfect for sharing. The kibbe balls are also fantastic here. The outer shell is made with lamb mixed with bulgar wheat, while the center offers a mix of ground lamb meat, diced onlions, pine nuts and just a hint of cinnamon. The restaurant also serves up open face meat and cheese pies, and plump little triange-shaped spinach pies that are light and lemony, and a pleasure to eat. You could survive here just on the appetizers, but then you'd miss out on some fabulous entrees.
There's baked eggplant stuffed with lamb, garlic, tomatoes and a special mix of Tanoreen spices, homemade stuffed cabbage and roasted chicken. But it's lamb and fresh fish that dominates here. Fish is served whole (red snapper, striped bass and porgies) and deep fried until crispy brown. Lamb kebabs are served with a buttery rice pilaf and fresh house salad, and taste like they just arrived from a charcoal grille. We settled on kebabs and also a stuffed quayle that arrived with a heavily-spiced side of hashsweh, an addictive rice dish made with ground lamb and pine nuts.
And try if you can to save some room for dessert. The house special is Knafeh made with shredded filo dough stuffed with two kinds of cheeses and cooked until the filo becomes nice and toasty. It's then drizzled with a rosewater syrup and chopped pistachios. It's quite a treat (and a 20 minute wait, so order early). They also serve traditional baklava that provide a sweet end to a terrific meal.
Tanoreen is a jewel of a restaurant that keeps evolving for the better.
Review By: Thomas Rafael