Via Emilia
Address:
47 E. 21st Street
City:
New York, NY
Zip:
10003
Phone:
(212) 505-3072
Site:
Visit the restaurant site
Map:
Map
Cuisine:
Italian
Area:
Flatiron District
Entree Price:
$15-20
Summary:
Review:
If you’ve walked by the spot that used to house Via Emilia on Park Avenue South and discovered the charming Italian eatery has vanished, you can rest easy. It’s not gone for good. In fact, it recently moved into spiffier, much more colorful digs just around the corner on East 21st Street. Not only are there more seats, but there are comfy leather booths in the restaurant’s back area that happily seat six.
A few things haven’t changed, including Via Emilia’s cash-only and no reservations policies (both of which I’d like to see revoked). And many of the restaurant’s signature dishes remain, although the menu has been expanded. A new starter – at least for me – was a basket of tigelles, crispy almost pita-like rounds of bread, accompanied by a delicious platter of salamis, which is perfect for nibbling with a glass of wine or Italian beer. The house’s mixed green salad pleased a couple of tablemates, while I was decidedly taken with a more complex salad that interspersed grapefruit slices and almonds with the crisp lettuce.
On my previous visits to the former space, nothing could deter me from the fabulous pastas, and I remained true to form, diving into the divine chicken and wild mushroom tortelloni, practically swimming in a truffle oil sauce. I also sampled tastes of the excellent fettucine Bolognese, heady with meat sauce, and an evening’s special of decent gnocchi made with sun-dried tomatoes. However, on my next visit, I may change course and order the perfectly cooked, beautifully marinated skirt steak, which enthralled my carnivorous pal Kate. A side dish of nicely baked and gratineed asparagus proved to be a fine accompaniment.
Now, truth be told, someday I might skip all the salad, pasta, and the steak – and begin with desserts. For how else could one finish the decadent flourless chocolate cake immersed in a mascarpone cream, cleverly served in a martini glass, or the slightly soggy but absolutely addictive tiramisu?
Review By: Brian Scott Lipton
IF THERE IS AN AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT IN NYC, THIS IS IT. EVERYTHING IS SO ORIGINAL THAT I WAS SHOCKED!! FROM THE WINE LIST (ONLY FROM THE REGION OF EMILIA ROMAGNA) TO THE APP TO THE DESSERTS. THE PASTAS ARE AMAZING AND HANDMADE DAILY. REALLY WHO DOES HANDMADE TORTELLINI IN NYC? OVERALL THE BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANT IN NYC
SCOTT ROBINSON
August 11, 2007, 7:08.36 pm ET