269 Columbus Ave (73rd St)
City: New York, NY
Phone: (212) 873-9400
Brunch: Saturday – Sunday 9am – 4pm
Lunch: Monday – Friday 11am – 4pm
Dinner: Sunday – Thursday 4pm – 11pm
Dinner: Friday – Saturday 4pm - 1am
Site: Visit the restaurant site
Chef: Alex Garcia
2nd Cuisine: Latin America
Area: West 70s
Payment: Amex Visa Mastercard
AG Kitchen has all the components that could make a great restaurant, but just doesn’t seem to pull it together. This UWS Latin eatery is bright, spacious, casual, and has a menu that looks incredible. And yet…this place just falls short.
Bacon wrapped dates with almonds, blue cheese, and endive is one of the most successful menu items. dates are warm and sticky, studded with a crunchy almond and wrapped in salty, smoky, charred and sticky bacon. The blue cheese adds a deep and funky note that rounds out the dish, and the endive and onion relish on the bottom lightens the bite.
Huevos Garcia with chipotle chicken, black beans, and a tostada sounds great but is disappointing. Though the eggs are well scrambled and the beans are well seasoned, those are the only redeeming qualities. The chicken is insipid and bathed in a watery, bland sauce, the tostadas are limp, and the dish lacks a creamy component like avocado or sour cream. This could be so much better than it is. Cinnamon French toast with whipped sour cream and tropical fruit doesn’t fare much better. The brioche is eggy and fluffy, but there is no real crust to provide textural variety. The taste is mostly of sugar, with little vanilla or cinnamon, and the tropical fruit is mealy. While the whipped sour cream is a great condiment, it doesn’t redeem this dish.
The food here doesn’t justify the prices. It’s too bad, because the service is nice and the setting is great for a jovial brunch, but $45 for subpar entrees and a few bacon wrapped dates is just too expensive. Sadly, this place just doesn’t live up to its potential.
Review By: Sarah Spigelman