134 Reade St (Hudson St)
City: New York, NY
Phone: (212) 941-9401
Chef: Marc Forgione
If TriBeCa hasn’t always turned out to be the dining-from-anywhere destination that some restaurateurs have hoped for, it’s nonetheless become more of a neighborhood than might have been expected. So time will tell if Forge will become a local hangout, if not more so.
It certainly has some major pluses in its favor; the famed design firm AvroKo has transformed the side-street space into a woody yet elegant hideaway, and the streetside patio is a major asset, especially on summer evenings. Great care has been taken to assemble an innovative, extensive, and slightly expensive wine list – I haven’t seen a Sancerre Rouge in ages – as well as other libations ranging from a refreshing raspberry lemonade (served with or without vodka) to an unappealing sounding concoction of Bourbon and cherry Coke.
Presumably, Forge’s biggest asset is chef Marc Forgione – son of the legendary Larry Forgione (“An American Place”), who definitely impressed us with a small sampling of appetizers, including the world’s most sophisticated chicken nuggets, delicate sheep’s milk agnolotti in a tomato consommé, and ethereal wild kampachi tartare topped with a dollop of caviar. We can’t tell you if the mains – a rather small selection that includes a rib-eye steak, diver scallops, red snapper, and suckling pig – live up to its predecessors, but we’re willing to go back and find out the next time we’re in the area.
[Forge has since changed its name to Marc Forgione after its chef]
Review By: Brian Scott Lipton