Few restaurateurs know more about the importance of giving customers excellent value, comfortable surroundings, and most importantly, food that they’ll want to eat again and again than Bernard Ros. A working chef for half-a-century (and previous owner of NoMad staple Meli Melo), Ros executes this formula with finesse at Paname, his popular bistro just steps from Sutton Place. Gallic staples such as the irresistible house pate, the superb boulliabaisse (chock full of shrimp, salmon, mollusks and fish in a perfectly seasoned saffron-based sauce) and a tender yet hearty beef bourguignon can fool you into thinking you’re actually in Paris, while more inventive fare, like baby octopus paired with white beans, showcase Ros’ fondness for fusion cuisine. Desserts run the gamut, as well, from a traditional apple galette to a small scoop of violet-flavored ice cream served in an Art Nouveau-style bud vase. C’est magnifique.
Review By: Brian Scott Lipton