Parish & Co.
202 Ninth Avenue
City: New York, NY
Site: Visit the restaurant site
Entree Price: $15-20
Fall is here, and that means Chelsea’s many, many galleries are chock full of some of the most interesting art to be found anywhere in the world. Of course, one can work up quite an appetite gallery-hopping. Fortunately, Parish & Co. is there to come to the rescue. This appealing two-year-old restaurant offers everything you need after seeing one too many Warhols or Lichtensteins: comfortable surroundings, excellent service, and a wonderfully varied menu. In fact, most of the dishes here – with the notable exception of soups and desserts – are available in either small (or in most cases, medium-sized) or large plates. So you can taste a few different items if that’s your desire, or just settle for your favorite dish. I can recommend both the semi-creamy, semi-spicy Andalusian gazpacho topped with a single shrimp and the even more unusual garlic bread soup, a clearish broth chock full of vegetables, whole cloves of garlic, a few chunks of bread, and lots of herbs and spices. (Adding a few pieces of the house’s fine foccacia is a good idea.) Indeed, the kitchen has a strong hand with spices; a little less ginger in an otherwise tasty special of filet mignon chunks might be beneficial. But there was plenty of flavor in a well-balanced fluke ceviche accented by horseradish and grapefruit. The house’s sure hand with seafood was also in evidence by the delicacy of scallops inside the crispy scallop dumplings, not to mention the fine celeriac slaw that accompanies them. Traditionalists might not like the gnocchi; the cylindrical potato dumplings are pan-fried in ghee (Indian clarified butter) and then tossed with caramelized shallots, sage, and parmesan cheese. But I found them pretty addictive. If you’re seeking something more substantial, our neighbors told us they were huge fans of Parish’s burgers (which, like most of the food here, is organic), and large entrees like Muscovy duck breast with apricots and roast chicken sounded tempting. On the other hand, if you’ve overindulged, you’ll be tempted to skip dessert. Here’s the solution to that dilemma: a quartet of homemade chocolate truffle sticks served atop a dollop of delicious orange mousse. They’re not just delicious, they’re practically a work of art.
Review By: Review by Brian Scott Lipton