Pies 'n' Thighs
166 South 4th St
City: Brooklyn, NY
Phone: (347) 529-6090
Site: Visit the restaurant site
2nd Cuisine: Southern
Entree Price: <$10
Payment: Cash only
Sometimes a little patience pays off. Or, in this case you could say a lot of patience. Nearly two years after Pies 'n' Thighs vowed to reopen, that date finally arrived. And it looks as though the crowds waited too. We found a line out the door the night of our visit.
It's quite a transformation. From a tiny kitchen space in the back of a bar at the foot of the Williamsburg Bridge to a great new space that seats 60 (if you include the carriage house it also occupies in the rear). The place seems to have been done on the cheap with mismatched chairs and tables that look as if they were found in grandma's basement. Who knows , maybe they were. And the kitchen in the center of the space isn't much larger than in the previous location. But there's a big difference. It's their kitchen!
Sarah Buck, Carolyn Bane and Erika Geldzahler are the driving force behind Pies 'n' Thighs. Carolyn mans the kitchen, whipping up cheesy grits or mac-n-cheese that are made to order and both are delicious. So are the collard greens that on our visit accompanied perfectly prepared fried catfish ($10) which is new to the menu.
But we had come for the fried chicken. It was among the best in the city at the old spot, and still excellent in the new spot. The "Chicken Box" ($10) comes with 3 pieces of chicken and a homemade biscuit. The chicken arrives golden brown with a crispy coating. The chicken inside tender and juicy. Yes, well worth a two-year wait. The pulled pork sandwich ($10) is also quite good, but much smaller than I remember. They're also serving up burgers and a large salad with black-eyed peas. Beer and wine is also available.
The other reason to be here is for the pies. They're amazing ($4.50 per slice/$30 whole). The apple pie tastes like you might remember your mom baking it at home. The apples are piled up nice and thick. The crust is flaky and oh, so buttery. You'll want to savor every bite (and take a piece home with you). We also tried the banana cream pie. Its crust is lined with dark chocolate with a creamy banana pudding filling and bits of chocolate on top. Eight pies will be offered in total, including rhubarb and sour cherry.
Just another excuse to make a return trip!
Review By: Thomas Rafael