63 Bedford Street (at Morton St)
City: New York, NY
Phone: (212) 929-3499
Breakfast: Mon-Fri 7:15am-11:30 am
Brunch: Sat - Sun 11am - 4pm
Lunch: Mon - Fri 11:30am - 5pm
Dinner: Mon - Sat 5pm - 11pm
Sunday: 5pm - 10pm
Site: Visit the restaurant site
2nd Cuisine: Mediterranean
Area: Greenwich Village
It may be called Snack but this small restaurant serves up a wide variety of food including entrees that make a full meal. The atmosphere is casual with plain wooden tables but the napkins are linen and the greeting very friendly. Food is Greek-centric and made of fresh ingredients with care that's recognizable. There are both hot and cold appetizers (meze).
The cold group includes a roasted eggplant dip, skordalia, a potato dip that's heavy on the garlic, taramosalata, my personal fave made of carp roe, stuffed grape leaves and others. On the hot front, the spinach triangles are flaky and greaseless as is the phyla stuffed with well-seasoned minced lamb. The veal meatballs looked terrific as they passed our table. There is always agvalemone, the famed lemon, egg and chicken broth soup, on the menu and usually another soup of the day. Braised lamb with toasted tomato aioli on cibatta bread is a deservedly popular sandwich as is the tuna with artichokes, tomatoes, shaved kalalotri cheese and more. If you want a hot entree, the pastitsio, a macaroni-based dish with ground beef under a very good Béchamel sauce is terrific and there's a vegetarian version of that Greek classic, mousakka. The lemony roast chicken comes with "lemon potatoes" and a side of the day's greens. Shrimp Santorini has ouzo in the sauce as well as some feta cheese while the meat
For dessert, the baklava is not tooth-shakingly sweet which is a nice surprise. Greek yogurt with honey ends a meal pleasantly especially with a cup of Greek coffee but there is also regular American coffee for those who insist.
The Keo beer comes from Cyprus-- even non-beer drinkers like me thought it excellent and there are other beers including Greek Alfa on offer. Wine drinkers can select from four or five reds and another group of whites, all from Greece including retsina which some of us think delicious and some feel tastes like paint remover. Diners can also drink soft drinks, mineral water, fruit juices and fresh lemonade. Service is gracious and although the place is small, you don't feel rushed.
Snack, open daily from 11:30 am, serves lunch, dinner and brunch and also does takeout. Credit cards are fine. Fifty-plus people can eat here and there's a bar as you enter. Lots of people from the area are regulars, delighted by the relatively gentle prices; it's also handy to the Cherry Lane Theater and the Lucille Lortel. If Athens is too far to get to, take yourself to Snack for delicious food prepared with care and attention.
Review By: Mari Gold