Tacombi at Fonda Nolita
267 Elizabeth Street
City: New York, NY
Phone: (917) 727-0179
Site: Visit the restaurant site
2nd Cuisine: Family Friendly
Entree Price: <$10
New York’s obsession with gourmet food trucks advances to the next level with Tacombi—the name a combination of taco and Combi, the model of the three VW buses that act as kitchens—in one of the coolest spots off the Bowery, Fonda Nolita. Though the tacos were very flavorful, the game changer here is the atmosphere.
The space, formerly a garage, is bathed in natural light, making Fonda Nolita super laid-back, airy, and a spot you’d prefer would remain secret. It won’t, judging by the endless media buzz it has already generated coupled with the upsurge of foot traffic in the newly re-gentrified Bowery.
Tin tables painted with game boards, playful patio lights, and flickering film projections on the wall enhance the experience, giving rise to what you might expect from a fun urban tailgating party with better food.
We had two tacos ($8), each served on two mini flour tortillas—Puerco Asado, Sanchez rubbed, slow-cooked roasted pork swimming in a not-too-spicy sauce and topped with crispy, thinly sliced red cabbage, and Pollo con Mole, fiery chicken breast accented by toasted sesame seeds. Both were delicious, but keep in mind that it will take two or three of these suckers to make a hearty meal. We suggest buying at least one of every item on the changing menu, which also includes tamales and tostadas. Grab a couple of sweet drinks like Horchata, a spicy rice mixture sweetened with condensed milk, Agua de Jamaica, hibiscus flower tea, or glass-bottled Lupita sodas, each $3. Expect massive crowds come summer when the garage is fully opened to the street and the Mexican beer flows.
Review By: Joann Jovinelly