The Fat Radish
17 Orchard St (Canal & Hester St)
City: New York, NY
Phone: (212) 300-4053
Site: Visit the restaurant site
I tried the bacon cheeseburger at the Fat Radish and was left wanting. However, stirred by public outcry at my disappointment, I decided to give the Fat Radish Burger another try. My own rules forbade me from going back to the Fat Radish two weeks in a row, but the burger is also served at the East Pole on the Upper East Side. The East Pole is operated by some of the team that runs the Fat Radish, and the Fat Radish Burger is also served there. So I took that opportunity for what I’m calling, “The Fat Radish Mulligan.”
Unlike my experience at the Fat Radish, there’s no need for me to talk about the starters at the East Pole first (although they were almost universally fantastic). Whereas in the prior week the burger had to survive on its flavorful bacon due to a complete lack of heat in the patty, this week's burger was served warm regardless of the fact that it was cooked medium rare. As such, the patty’s flavor was much more detectable, even delicious. Also unlike the prior week, the East Pole’s brioche bun was far from dry. The duck fat fries were once again a highlight. I would also be remiss if I did not mention that the Chicken Kiev was a delightful dish.
The Fat Radish Burger was executed quite well at the East Pole, leading me to believe that on a less than jam-packed night, the Fat Radish has the capability of serving their namesake burger just as expertly.
Review By: Brad Garoon