99 Gansevoort St (Whitney Museum)
City: New York, NY
Phone: (212) 570-3670
Site: Visit the restaurant site
Chef: Chris Bradley
2nd Cuisine: Coffee Shops
Area: Meatpacking District
Danny Meyer restaurants prove that a big restaurateur can still maintain a high level of service and food at each and every one of his establishments. From high-end dining to some of the most sought after burgers in the city, he brings hospitality to new levels.
Untitled, his restaurant at the Whitney, is an upscale take on a classic NYC coffee shop. The restaurant is in the bottom floor of the museum, but high ceilings and lots of light from surrounding windows keeps it from feeling dark or dank. It is casual but not totally hole-in-the-wall – this may be a coffee shop, but it is a Danny Meyer coffee shop, after all.
The coffee here deserves special mention. It is caramel-y and nutty, not at all bitter like so many coffees are. Scrambled egg whites, asparagus, mushrooms, and chives are diner eggs, elevated. Smooth and fluffy egg whites that clearly don’t come from a carton are strewn with beefy mushrooms, grassy asparagus, and fresh chives. The eggs are soft and supple, versus many egg whites that turn rubbery from fast, hard cooking. The home fries alongside are almost impossibly crispy – as if they are made in a deep fryer versus a sautee pan. A very simple meal lifted by expert cooking techniques. Spread some creamy butter and strawberry compote, with whole strawberries in there, on the tangy, coarse sourdough toast.
Later in the day, try the juicy burger or one of the various salad offerings. Untitled may not be a destination restaurant, but it is much better than many museum restaurants are. The food is pricey, but the excellent service, fair portions, and delicious food more than justifies them.
Review By: Sarah Spigelman