I've always wanted to swing through those grand glass doors at Locanda Verde, Chef Andrew Carmellini's flagship restaurant located in Robert DeNiro's TriBeCa hotel.  On our first try on a Saturday night were told the wait could be an hour and a half.  And yes I know there are such things as reservations.  But for some reason I prefer being a walk-in. Maybe it's the thrill of landing a hard-to-get table.  Our second attempt was also on a Saturday night, only this time it was after ten o'clock. Table for three, I said.  The beautiful hostess, one of two, shot me a smile and said let me see what I could do.  After glancing at her computer she looked up and said, a half hour.  My heart was racing with excitement.  I quickly said, "We'll take it."

At this point I was scouting out the joint.  To the left of me were smaller tables with couples sipping cocktails and enjoying a late-night bite.  Straight ahead was the bar.  It was loaded with women dressed to the T's, some in stilletos and skirts so short it left very little to the imagination.  This is cleary a spot to scout out a date and not just a meal.  And here I was, a middle-aged man with his wife and teenage son in tow, who would have preferred being home playing video games.  My initial thought was this would not end well.  Happily, I was wrong.

We were seated toward the back of the restaurant.  On one side was an open-air kitchen operating like a well-oiled machine, on the other, a table of nine or so woman having a party.  The party girl was wearing some sort of sash.   All the while, luscious plates ranging from main courses to tempting desserts were whizzing by.   I was in food heaven.

Italy is the star here.  There are numerous pasta dishes to choose from; seafood is a close second.  We started with crab crostini ($12), two pillowy balls of light-as-air blue claw crab atop crisp Italian bread slathered with red sauce and topped with crispy slices of cucumber and jalapeno.  In a few bites they were gone, but not forgotten.  Lamb meatball sliders ($12) are also luscious, drenched in a rich tomato sauce atop tangy goat cheese, called Caprino. 

My son ordered the Pappardelle ($23), a wonderous tangle of wide noodles with a hearty lamb bolognese with mint and sheep's milk ricotta.  Video games were no longer on his mind as he ripped into it with great abandon.  My wife went for the Creste di Gallo ($22), half-moon shaped pasta served with rabbit sausage and fennel.  The sausage is fabulous, not gamey at all.  I ordered the Duck Arrosto ($35) which proved to be the star of the table.  Three thick slices of the most tender duck, served rare, atop a medley of farro and vegetables, surrounded by plums that were juicy and tart.  It is a truly stunning plate, matched only by its stunning flavor.  Other entrees include a Berkshire pork chop ($36) with cherry mostarda, and wood-fired garlic chicken for two ($29 per person). 

Save space for dessert.  The peach and rasberry crostata ($12), drizzled with raspberry caramel and pistachios for crunch, is a dream.  It arrived with a scoop of creamy vanilla gelato.  The mint stracciatella gelato ($8) was another hit, offering hints of fresh mint and dark chocolate that is hard to resist.  The restaurant also serves a chocolate tart with mssion figs, corn panna cotta and a lemon semifreddo.   Needless to say, service is impeccable.

As our meal was coming to an end the women at the adjacent table were becoming, shall we say, a little rambunctious, flirting with men at nearby tables.   It was all in good fun and marked the end of what was a very good night.  Our next visit will be for breakfast which I'm told is also a winner.